Peter Lauer, Grand Cru Neuenberg 2020
From the importer-
The style at Lauer is 180 degrees from his famous Saar neighbors, Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken – the focus is on dry and off-dry Rieslings as opposed to the residual sugar (Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese) wines of the latter two. Yet the hallmarks are similar: purity, precision, rigor, mineral. While the great majority of wines are sourced from the solid hillside of the Ayler Kupp, this single mountain is really an intricate tapestry of parcels and sub-parcels. Lauer bottles based on “fass”, or cask, numbers that are often aligned with the names of pre-1971 vineyard names. However, one shouldn’t take the fass numbers too seriously; they are based on the parcels that historically went into these fass and the style of wine they most often produced. One example, “Fass 6 – Senior” is based on a selection that Florian’s grandfather made every year for his personal consumption. On this barrel, he would write “Senior.” According to Florian, nine times out of ten, his grandfather would pick Fass 6, which held wine sourced from the western-most region of the Kupp. Thus, today, the wine from this parcel is called “Fass 6 – Senior.”
As with the "Unterstenberg," the "Neuenberg" this year comes in close to dry and is one of the more curious wines Florian makes. It is sourced from a cherry parcel in the Grand Cru Kupp, one that sees the cool morning sun as well as the warmer afternoon sun and, situated as it is mid-slope, it can often have a bit of mist or fog lingering about. Sometimes there is just a touch of early botrytis that Florian will keep in the wine, adding to it a certain exotic textural component, glycerin polished down to its mineral core. It is a profound testament to what Lauer can do, what Riesling can do. It is also always one of the rarest wines.