Peter Lauer, Grand Cru Kern 2020
From the importer-
The style at Lauer is 180 degrees from his famous Saar neighbors, Egon Müller and Hanno Zilliken – the focus is on dry and off-dry Rieslings as opposed to the residual sugar (Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese) wines of the latter two. Yet the hallmarks are similar: purity, precision, rigor, mineral. While the great majority of wines are sourced from the solid hillside of the Ayler Kupp, this single mountain is really an intricate tapestry of parcels and sub-parcels. Lauer bottles based on “fass”, or cask, numbers that are often aligned with the names of pre-1971 vineyard names. However, one shouldn’t take the fass numbers too seriously; they are based on the parcels that historically went into these fass and the style of wine they most often produced. One example, “Fass 6 – Senior” is based on a selection that Florian’s grandfather made every year for his personal consumption. On this barrel, he would write “Senior.” According to Florian, nine times out of ten, his grandfather would pick Fass 6, which held wine sourced from the western-most region of the Kupp. Thus, today, the wine from this parcel is called “Fass 6 – Senior.”
"Kern" is named after the 19th century industrialist that cleared this more-western part of the Kupp; it is a small parcel that spans the entire top-to-bottom reach of the Kupp. Thus, for me, the wine always has something of the lift and rigor of "Stirn" and something of the depth of wines like "Neuenberg" and "Unterstenberg." The vines are old here, well over 70-years-old, so the wine has some stuffing. It is most often well in that off-dry style, yet, with Lauer, it's always about the balance.