Vollenweider, Wolfer Goldgrube Kabinett 2022

100% Riesling

Mosel, Germany

The Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett was harvested on old vines in the Jon sector of the vineyard and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It displays a most captivating and superbly complex nose of minty herbs, fine spices, vineyard peach, a delicate touch of almond cream, white and yellow flowers, and some bakery notes and residues from its spontaneous fermentation. The wine proves both light and intense on the focused and layered palate. There is a hint of cream and riper yellow fruits coming through, yet the finish is pure and vibrating. 

In 1999 the Swiss Daniel Vollenweider purchased a one-hectare plot of old vines in the once famous Wolfer Goldgrube. The results were extraordinary. From the beginning, the wines showcased an explosive energy, glossy and kaleidoscopic mid-palates with a sternly Germanic definition and detail. More than 15 years later, at just over 4 hectares, Daniel’s operation remains a one-man show. 

This is prime Middle Mosel real-estate, a site with historic fame. The Goldgrube also happens to have a genetic gold mine of old, un-grafted vines up to and beyond 80 years old. Yet, as with so many of these sacred places, the Goldgrube was going slowly fallow (or, at the very least, under-performing) because it had no author to write its story, no one to sing its song. And then someone like Daniel comes along and things change, completely.

The winemaking philosophy is as simple as it gets, there are no short cuts, no compromises. The estate is 100% Riesling and 100% steep vineyards awash with slate. The work is all done by hand and the vinification is as hands-off as possible. That’s it.

Daniel clearly has “the touch” for sweet wines – these are among the most thrilling Prädikat wines you will ever taste. They are full-throttle Rieslings with dense mid-palates and seductive curves. They have weight, yet they also have 100,000 volts of electricity coursing through them and this gives them a lift, a verve, a length that is, well, uncommon.