Seehof - Riesling Trocken 2019
From the importer -
Klaus Peter Keller is the most famous practitioner of dry German Rieslings and he’s from the Rheinhessen. More importantly, Keller currently works vineyards in the Rheinhessen. It’s funny: sites that were, only a short time ago, all but unknown to the general public (Abtserde, Kirchspiel, Morstein, etc.) are now mentioned with reverence and awe.
In this tense atmosphere, it’s easy enough to understand the jostling and positioning. It’s easy enough to understand the logic of the wines that have grown (in direct relationship to the winemakers’ egos?) in alcohol, texture, richness, alcohol… The goal, one sometimes feels, is not great wine; the goal is to be noticed.
Thus in this context, Florian Fauth, who has continued over the last decade to make wines of clarity and balance, has assumed an surprisingly radical stance. Florian’s good-natured quality, his ease, his sense of proportion and his firm grip on what’s really important: you can see this, you can taste this, in the wines. It’s not that the wines don’t have ambition – far from it. Rather, it just feels like the wines are content in being really good, or in being great, or in being whatever it is they are… without having to shout about it.
For the wines of the Rheinhessen, the key is limestone. This is what gives the wines their glycerin-induced sexiness. This is also what gives them the flair of acidity, a presence strong enough to counter the lavish extract and to keep the wines from feeling gooey or too heavy. It’s a delicate balance, to be honest, but when you nail it… well, it’s impressive.