Julian Haart - Riesling J.J. Kabinett 2020
From the importer -
Although Julian has the resume most people can only dream of (he has studied with Egon Müller, Klaus Peter Keller and Werner Schönleber; that's like the German wine equivalent of learning to draw under Picasso, da Vinci, and Ingres), the fact is that this resume is an easy, glossy headline that simplifies a much more complicated story. We have met few more serious, more thoughtful and detail-oriented growers. There is so much talent here and Julian is relentless. He will be a very, very important grower. Starting with a microscopic 0.25ha plot of terraced vines in the famous Goldtröpchen vineyard, Julian has finally bought a few more parcels and is renting some serious parcels from his uncle. The overall style is clearly a type of Mosel-hommage to Keller. The wines showcase a glossy, super-pure fruit that shrieks across the palate with a pushing, sharply delineated acidity. Pulverized slate, polished to a fine dust, coats everything. The hierarchy at Haart is based on Burgundy. There is the appellation-level "Moselle” (read: Bourgogne) and the village-level Piesporter. As with last year, we also bought and entire Fuder of Julian’s younger-vine juice, the aptly-named “1,000L.” Quantities on all wines limited.